Daniel-Etienne Defaix 2006 Chablis Premier CruTabula Rasa
"Unlike so many other older white Burgundies in the market, there is no premature oxidation, no watery finish, and zero cracks in its foundation. As usual, it’s a bonafide masterpiece that will continue evolving for many years to come. In the glass, it reveals star-bright aromatics in the form of crushed yellow apple, pineapple core, salt-preserved Meyer lemon, lime blossoms, quince, crushed almonds, lees, honeysuckle, gardenia, pulverized chalk, seaspray, and bergamot orange zest. It’s beautifully layered palate is medium-bodied and intensely mouthwatering, thanks to surging waves of crushed-stone minerality.
Defaix’s family has been producing wine in and around this region since the 1500s. Defaix works almost exclusively with Chardonnay and his ample collection of Premier Cru vineyards are farmed entirely by hand and fertilized with natural compost and manure. It’s an ancient and devoutly traditional operation in the vines."