You won’t encounter many rosés made like this one, literally born from the ashes high on the northern face of Mount Etna. Cesare Fulvio and Federica Turillo, proprietors of Masseria del Pino, produce a few barrels each year inside a reconditioned palmento—one of the ancient little farmhouses that dot Sicily’s rural landscape, where growers once brought their grapes to be pressed. Their method of making rosé, explained by Federica, much resembles what one might have encountered here hundreds of years ago: “We destem the grapes and leave them to macerate in wooden crates for about an hour—the time to eat lunch—and then press off the juice in our basket press. The must goes into tonneaux and fermentation begins naturally.”